Chartres Old Town

October 29:  The old town of Chartres is worth a stroll, apart from the Cathedral. Among the tacky souvenir shops, we discovered La Galerie du Vitrail, a stained glass shop that offered artisan-crafted delights in traditional and modern designs. They could even ship anywhere in the world. Natrually, I couldn't afford anything.

Monsieur Bellini

Then there was the Galerie Bellini, a tiny shop located down a few twisting steps, run by a retired computer entrepreneur. Monsieur Bellini took the time to talk to us, in fluent English, about his rotating set of artwork, the history of Chartres and about life in general.

Finally, Punjab Restaurant is closer to the train station but offers excellent Pakistani meals at reasonable prices. (The staff warns you when you first come in, that they don't serve alcohol. But they don't tell you it's because the restaurant is Muslim.) My fixed-price menu included a delicious lamb biryani. But the pistachio kulfi stunned me with its flavor, since it was the first time I've ever  had this ice-cream-like sweet. It seemed to have just a hint of rose water as an enhancement.  They don't have a website, so here's the contact info:

Punjab

13 rue Ste. Même  28000 Chartres
02 37 21 31 36

Chartres Cathedral

October 29: More people seemed to cling to the facade of Chartres Cathedral than were living in the city of Chartres when we visited. Granted, the former were made of stone. Some were fist-sized depictions of new testament scenes that covered every inch of the stone door frames. Others were the size of actual human beings with such details as folds in clothing and coats of arms. Trying to view let alone comprehend all of themthem would take a lifetime.

More statues decorated the interior, especially the choir screen. These showed the everyday lives of the Holy Family, especially the one below, which proves that Jesus was Jewish.

Jesus is not having a good time.

The most unusual aspect of the interior for me was the circular maze, though I'm told this is a common feature of many Gothic cathedrals. Pilgrims were supposed to follow its path while meditating, until they reached enlightenment at the center. A gaggle of tourists were trying to negotiate the lines when we visited, self-consciously posturing their way to the middle. It looked like a one-ring circus incapable of producing any religious dividends. It would seem to be more productive to buy one of the hand-sized mazes at the gift shop, and trace your way to the center with a finger.

If only the maze was this uncrowded when we visited.

Chartres Cathedral

October 29: More people seemed to cling to the facade of Chartres Cathedral than were living in the city of Chartres when we visited. Granted, the former were made of stone. Some were fist-sized depictions of new testament scenes that covered every inch of the stone door frames. Others were the size of actual human beings with such details as folds in clothing and coats of arms. Trying to view let alone comprehend all of themthem would take a lifetime.

More statues decorated the interior, especially the choir screen. These showed the everyday lives of the Holy Family, especially the one below, which proves that Jesus was Jewish.